@pontus The button's firmware won't boot if it detects that the voltage is below 2.2 Volt, resulting in that the LED stays on since that is the default hardware state. If you are sure the battery is good, please try inserting it again.

@trdn89 it’s insane that they haven’t figured out how to make twist send an IR signal for controlling volume.

@peter-2 concur on having a way to just twist and have stuff happen at each of the 12 positions without pushing (which btw seems to work so and so)

+1 on this - I bought the Twist to create an old school transistor radio experience where you turn the knob to tune into different radio stations.

Don’t really understand why we’re limited to 4 steps there.

Plz add advanced mode for the blender so we get 12 steps! 🙏🙏🙏

@leonardchrist I know I'm super late to the party, but the fact that the hub never ACKs the SYN ACK, plus the fact that it then re-xmits the SYN makes it seem like it never gets anything back. A couple obvious things to check would be the SN mask, and any possible ACLs/VLAN config on the switch ports. Alternatively, you could swap the PC/Hub switch ports and see if the behavior changes at all.

Alternatively, you could take a deeper look at the SYN ACK from the PC and compare it to the successful equivalent from the WiFi scenario. Hardware failure on the switchport, or hub, might cause it to fail MAC checksums.

In order to get some of my flic2 buttons open to replace the batteries, I had to peel the adhesive off from the back and replace it with stronger adhesive. I used the black foam 3M automotive tape. That allows the buttons to stick to surfaces stronger which allowed me to finally twist the covers off successfully.

@Emil via Alexa routine, and yes I've tried removing/recreating on Alexa itself. Triggering routine directly on Alexa works fine. As noted, the setup has been working for 2+ years, until it didn't.

@Emil Thanks for response! Good to know its still coming. 🙏

@flic-17 Interesting. May I know your use case or what you are controlling with your rotary encoder?

@nascent Thanks for the info!

I am have the same problem, is there any fix available for this ? I have to make a flow for every button now and that is not ideal

@Emil Understood. I am far from a tech guy but can I ask if same protocol is in use between Flic Hub and Flic Twist? I ask because I found I need to place my phone kinda close to Flic Hub in order for the app to work, but Flic Hub and my Flic Twists are relativity way more far and somehow there is no delay whatsoever.

I guess my question is if migrating from BLE to IP (or option to choose IP) something in the roadmap?

I'd like to also take this chance and follow up where we are in regard Flic Twist SDK and/or native Home Assistant support.

Thank you!

@oskar sent support a video.
A new twist can't connect either - brand new out of box. Tried to remove hue bridge, app crashes.

It's broken. Still.

@mydayzeegirl Hi, you need to add the Alexa action in the Flic app to the corresponding Flic button on Push, Double Push and/or Hold.

Please see the instructions here: https://flic.io/applications/alexa/setup.

I am using the flic buttons + hub with http requests.
So you can start the flow with a http request trigger of homey logic.
This works very well, skipping the flic homey app and has a much, much better performance and works even if your internet connection is down.
You just have to configure a static IP for Homey to do that. Why sending a www request around the globe for triggering your light 2m away from the button?
Edit: works as well with advanced flows